Benin City is both the current capital of Nigeria's Edo State and the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Benin. Its ruler, or Oba, and his over 300 chiefs still exert a powerful influence over this contemporary town. The names of former monarchs grace street signs, school names, and other public buildings. In the center of town, traffic stops for thanksgiving ceremonies, funerals, and royal festival processions. The palace is still the town's hub, since the major thoroughfares radiate from…